Hakkei-tei Ryokan in Hikone

I think the highlight of the recent trip we took had to have been the small ryokan (Japanese style inn) where we stayed in the castle town of Hikone. The building we stayed in was built in 1677. It was a thatched roof 5-room complex that was located down the hill from the castle. The building itself juts out over a small pond in a Japanese garden built in the same year. The garden was designed by Kobori Enshu, one the most famous garden designers in Japanese history. The building was used throughout the centuries as the entertainment and guest quarters for guests of the lords of Hikone castle. It is amazing to think of the people who have stayed in those rooms and the things that were talked about throughout generations.

We were the only guests there that evening se we got to stay in the large front rooms that looked out over the pond. The rooms were small and old with beautiful woodwork and impeccable décor. We had sliding doors that opened up to a small tatami veranda where there were more sliding doors that opened up over the pond. It was pretty hot that day so we kept those doors shut to keep out heat and bugs. Sitting there in our yukata after having a nice soak in the communal bath, watching herons and ducks and turtles in the pond one could really imagine the history.

The owner is the third generation to own the building. His grandfather bought it 70 years ago and turned it into an inn. The owner is also the chef! We had an 11 course dinner that night while the sun set over the garden. It was one of the best meals I have ever had in Japan. We had one unusual thing which they call funazushi. It is fermented carp that tastes like blue cheese. It is actually the ancestor or modern day sushi. Breakfast was also amazing and consisted of local specialties and beautiful presentation. The staff was all so friendly! There is very little privacy though. When I came out of the bath and was walking down the hall in my yukata (Japanese style robe) the woman who took care of us basically followed me into my room and proceeded to put it on me correctly. It didn’t matter to her that I was totally naked underneath! But she made me look presentable and I felt like what it might have been like as an important lady guest in old Japan.

One reason I really wanted to stay in this place was because of the most famous member of the Ii family, which was the ruling family of Hikone castle. Naosuke Ii, being the shogun’s right hand man in the 1850’s, was pretty much responsible for making the decision to open up Japan to the rest of the world when Com. Perry arrived in 1853. It was a turning point in history and it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to stay within walls that have seen so much. I am glad that Damien and I got to experience that with our good friends Heather and Jeremy! I will never forget it.